Chasing is a manual goldsmithing technique that allows for the decoration of a metal surface with fine lines, ornamental motifs, and highly precise details. The name comes from the burin, the steel tool used by the engraver to remove small portions of material and transfer the design onto the jewellery.
Every mark is born from the control of the hand, from the knowledge of metal, and from a craft skill honed over time.
This is why burin engraving is closely linked to the tradition of the workshops and to Stile Orafo Fiorentino, where technique, artistry and precision all contribute to making each creation unique and distinctive.
Chiselling: definition and characteristics
Chasing is a goldsmithing technique performed directly on the surface of the metal. With controlled pressure from the tool, the engraver removes thin portions of material, creating furrows of varying width and depth. From these marks, lines, decorative patterns, textures, and figurative details can emerge, enriching the surface of the jewellery.
The result depends on the shape and inclination of the tip, the pressure applied and the continuity of the stroke. By varying these elements, the artisan can modulate the mark, create contrasts between light and shadow, and achieve more textured, deep or finely decorated surfaces.
Each engraving is then designed in relation to the shape of the jewel and the characteristics of the metal. Precision, experience and knowledge of the material allow the design to be transformed into a permanent decoration, making the craftsmanship an integral part of the jewel's identity.
What is a burin and what is it used for?
The burin, also known as a 'ciappola' in Florence, is the engraving tool from which this ancient goldsmithing technique takes its name. It consists of a small handle, shaped to be held in the palm of the hand, and a hardened steel point that the engraver guides directly onto the metal surface.
The shape of the point varies according to the desired result. Some gravers allow for fine, precise lines to be traced, while others can create deeper grooves, textures, and more pronounced decorations. The tool is therefore chosen in relation to the design, the shape of the jewellery, and the characteristics of the material.
In goldsmithing, the burin is used to engrave gold, silver, and other metals, creating geometric, floral, or figurative motifs. It can define outlines, work on backgrounds, and create light contrasts. The quality of the result depends on the precision of the movement and the experience of the engraver.
How to make a burin engraving
The creation of a burin engraving begins with the drawing. The motif is studied in relation to the shape of the jewellery, the available surface area, and the desired outcome. Once defined, the drawing is transferred to the metal, so as to precisely guide each stage of the work.
The jewel is then fixed onto a stable support, while the engraver chooses the most suitable burin for the type of mark. The tip must be perfectly sharp, because even the slightest irregularity can compromise the continuity of the line and the cleanliness of the engraving. The tool is pushed onto the surface with a controlled movement, modulating the pressure, inclination, and depth of the cut, so as to obtain a clear, precise, and bright mark.
During engraving, the artisan rotates the piece and guides the burin along the design, proceeding slowly and with great precision. The quality of the line and the cleanliness of the grooves are fundamental to enhancing the metal's sheen and the play of light on the surface. At the end, the jewellery is checked and finished to verify the sharpness of the engraving, the balance of the motif, and the overall brilliance of the work.
The value of chasing and engraving
Chasing preserves the mark of the hand that created it. Each line is born from a precise gesture, from knowledge of the metal and from the time dedicated to the work, making each decoration different from the next.
It is in this care that the value of artisanal work is recognised: knowledge passed down in the workshop, capable of transforming the design into an integral part of the jewellery.
Burin engraving in Stile Orafo Fiorentino
engraving plays a central role in Stile Orafo Fiorentino. Since the Middle Ages, goldsmiths have worked gold and silver surfaces to create decorations that evoke the textures, weaves, and embroideries of precious textiles produced in the city.
Among the most characteristic elements are:
- Crosshatch, linen, silk, and grain engraving, used to animate backgrounds and create light and chiaroscuro effects;
- leaf, vine, and scroll motifs, inspired by Florentine decorative tradition;
- geometric shapes, rosettes and stars, arranged according to criteria of symmetry, proportion, and harmony;
- the finishing of the details and edges, which helps to make the surface of the jewellery richer and more legible.
These decorations are born from the encounter between design, knowledge of metal, and manual skill. Each mark must adapt to the shape of the jewellery and dialogue with the other workings, maintaining balance and continuity.
The transmission of this knowledge in Florentine goldsmith workshops has allowed the technique to be preserved over time. Even today, burin engraving continues to interpret this heritage through jewellery that combines tradition, precision, and contemporary taste.
The burin is used on metals and jewellery.
Chasing can be carried out on various metals used in goldsmithing. Gold and silver are among the most commonly used, as they allow the engraver to modulate the mark and achieve precise, deep, or light decorations depending on the project. The hardness of the alloy, the thickness, and the shape of the surface influence the choice of tool and the type of work.
The burin can be used on:
- Rings and wedding bands, to create ornamental motifs, borders, and textures;
- Pendants and medallions, suitable for figurative engravings, symbols and monograms;
- Bracelets and necklaces, where decoration can follow the rhythm and form of the jewel;
- brooches, cufflinks and small goldware, enriched with geometric, floral, or traditionally inspired details.
Each engraving is designed in relation to the piece of jewellery. The design must respect its proportions, volumes and function, enhancing the surface without altering its balance.
Chiselling, engraving and other goldsmithing techniques: what are the differences?
Chasing is part of a set of goldsmithing techniques that allow for the decoration and transformation of a metal's surface. Each process requires specific tools and movements, producing different effects on the jewellery.
The burin is an engraving tool that works in negative: it removes material from the surface, creating a clear and defined incised groove. The mark obtained is the result of the removal of metal and therefore develops in depth.
The chisel, however, intervenes by removing material, but shapes it through plastic deformation. It acts on the frontal surface of the piece by compressing, raising, or defining the metal, with the aim of creating or finishing reliefs, volumes, and ornamental details. In this sense, the chisel is associated with positive work.
The two techniques can be used together to enrich the jewellery with reliefs, chiaroscuro effects, and more intricate details.
Difference between burin engraving and laser engraving
The main difference between a burin engraving and a laser engraving can be recognised by the way the metal reflects light. The burin carves metal by removing it with a clean cut: the groove is smooth, bright, and reflective, giving depth and luminosity to the engraving.
The laser, on the other hand, removes material through a thermal melting process. The bottom of the engraving has a more opaque and slightly granular microstructure, with a less brilliant visual effect.
These differences help to understand the role of the different Goldworking techniques in the creation of a piece of jewellery.
Chasing engraving at the Vannini Gioielli goldsmith's workshop
At the Vannini Gioielli goldsmith laboratory, 'bulino' engraving originates from the fusion of design, knowledge of metal, and manual skill. Each piece is studied in relation to the jewel's shape, the available surface area, and the desired effect.
The engraver chooses the most suitable tool, defines the motif and guides the burin with precision, modulating the depth, rhythm and intensity of the line. In this way, the decoration becomes an integral part of the design and contributes to making the piece of jewellery more personal and recognisable.
This technique expresses the value of knowledge that has matured over time and been passed down through workshop labour. In the goldsmith's workshop in Florence At Vannini Gioielli, tradition converses with contemporary taste, shaping bespoke creations and craftsmanship capable of enhancing the identity of each piece.
